when I started wavesurfing some years ago, they always told me “don’t think about it, just do it!” and I just couldn’t. I’ve been so busy remembering all the steps to make a good take-off, stand at the right place on the board, keep my hands in the proper position, my eyes to the front, my head above my knees and what not, that I very often ended up in nose-dives and wipe-outs (which actually were also funny most of the time, I have to say).
then there are other people who tell you “hey, you have to work on this and that before you can handle bigger waves. it’s all about the technique.” and you try for some time, but it also doesn’t make any sense to you.
finally, on my last two trips (sri lanka and java), I realised that my first wavesurfing-“gurus” were damn right. it all comes natural. you just have to do it.
bottom an top turns came to me this time like jesus to mary. I didn’t think about it, but I ended up doing it. naturally. and that is an experience I don’t have words for – it feels so right and it’s so overwhelming. we can do everything, if we try with passion and patience. but if we try too hard, we will fail.
have fun and let go…