I can’t just wait!

everytime I’m on a surftrip I think I will be able to store the level of recreation and calmness. but after some weeks I’m so back in “normal life” again that I sometimes don’t even notice how bad this lifestyle is for my body and and especially for my soul.

reading helps me a lot to keep in a kind of healthy state and I think I really have to get an indoor hammock as soon as possible!

I’ve always been very much against yoga and stuff, because I thought, it’s just some stupid trend – but perhaps I should give it a try also… because hey – I’ve got more than half a year to spend as nice and cosy as possible before my big adventure!

fall

it’s getting colder, which means: wetsuit-time again! I don’t like it at all. do you?

I’ve got a 4’3”, it has got a nice design, of course (I’m a surfergirl, it’s all about the style, lol – not really), but I’m so limited in my movements. it’s just too thick. but in a 3’2” I’m too cold.

looking forward to next time in just my boardshorts and a lycra! :)

more n’ more

do you know the feeling of always wanting more? more hours of that beach party. more pages of that fabulous book. more days of summer. more waves per session. more of that skin…

terima kasih

this is way too personal now, but I don’t want to agonize over it at the moment. exactly one year ago my grandpa died. I do not consider myself religious but I’m sometimes “talking” to him and asking him why he cannot take better care of me from where he is now.

but I guess he took enough care of me. he left some money for me on this earth and I started thinking about what to do with it. then the idea of my surf trip rose and this must be the path he paved for me.

thank you for making this possible! and I’m looking forward to experiencing what you arranged for me on my adventurous journey from wave to wave…

waves of morocco, we’re coming!

remember my beloved quote of jaimal yogis? here it is again:

“…I realized every surfer has to like paddling, at least a little. this was because extremely little of each surf session is spent actually standing up on your surfboard on a wave – maybe one percent – so if you’re looking to have a good time it’s essential to find a way to enjoy paddling, or at least good-naturedly bear it. and in that way, I thought, surfing is kind of a good metaphor for the rest of life.”

today, nothing special happened – okay, I booked our flight to morocco – but besides, it was just another day. pretty normal one. still, I didn’t have to paddle much today (in the last weeks I had to… really hard work…) and I’m sooo grateful! thanks a lot for today (whomever…)!

AND HEY: I really booked our flight to morocco! at the end of october! I’m sooo excited! because we couldn’t find a cheap airline at first and I already thought, we couldn’t go – but it worked! yippieh-ey-eh! :)

comfortable in my skin (when I’m surfing)

first surf-try in a river last saturday

hard one – but wanna do it again!!! :)))

tell me

can you lead a stable, solid, steady life better or happier than one where you don’t know what tomorrow brings…?

*thinking*

destiny destination

one year and one month ago, in the indian ocean, it all started.

I met travellers from israel and I realised that I don’t know much, almost nothing, about this part of the world, its religion, its people, its conflicts, its language, its ugliness and beauteousness. at that time, I rent a board whose shape has been so wow that I just had to have an equivalent.

eleven months ago there was another blow of fate – if this is a term that can be full of happiness and luck. I was blessed to get to know a very special soul, who kept me close to promised land.

two months ago I picked up my custom board, which is absolutely amazing, in old yafo.

one week ago – it has been raining cats and dogs and I’ve been bored back home after my latest surf trip – I had nothing better to do than join a friend on a meeting and… I met perhaps the one guy in my small town who is originally from tel aviv.

at the very moment I’m reading a book about an australian girl in india – and what is she writing about since 20 pages? israelis, judaism.

pleased to meet you!

or is this perhaps only the topic of bent cutlery in your drawer…?

really? like really really?

somewhere in a capitalistic state a girl with a university degree and a nice job decides to leave everything behind – to gain some more salt water experiences in the developing world. she’s very lucky, because her family is backing her all the way.

her friends? some are cool with it, some think it’s cool and some might say she’s a total freak. “you will give up your job?” really? like really really? YES! with a big smile on my face! because I feel it! and at least I should try, no?

and then there are travel-companions who understand you lock, stock and barrel! and they also have some very important words for you that bring you back down to mother earth’s ground:

“just remember that your capitalist job pays for your vacation to diverse 3rd world countries… otherwise you would be ‘living’ 3rd world… which is not nearly as exotic as ‘passing through’ 3rd world – it’s a catch 22, I know…”

thank you so damn f****** much, my dear friend! and to say it with rocky leon’s words: “the sun is shining and the grass is green, so quit your whining…” & “maybe you shouldn’t work anymore…” :)