“you get out there, wait all day and jockey around until you get the wave. you make a couple of flashy maneuvers and come through a section that no one thinks you can make. you finish with flair at the whitewash end – and all of this for nothing, because when it’s done it’s gone. surfing is sort of a zen exercise, the philosophy of action being everything and result’s nothing. that’s the joy of surfing… to understand being in the moment.” (john milius)
thx for this one, ben! have fun in bali and see ya next year in sri lanka! ;*
| Tags: australia, bali, batu karas, blue kiwi, carpe diem, indonesia, java, john milius, live for the moment, live for today, philosophy, sexy surf chick, sri lanka, surf, surf quotes, surfing, waves, wavesurfing, zen |
everytime I’m on a surftrip I think I will be able to store the level of recreation and calmness. but after some weeks I’m so back in “normal life” again that I sometimes don’t even notice how bad this lifestyle is for my body and and especially for my soul.
reading helps me a lot to keep in a kind of healthy state and I think I really have to get an indoor hammock as soon as possible!
I’ve always been very much against yoga and stuff, because I thought, it’s just some stupid trend – but perhaps I should give it a try also… because hey – I’ve got more than half a year to spend as nice and cosy as possible before my big adventure!
| Tags: adventure, batu karas, body and soul, calmness, cimaja, gilang, hammock, health, journey, lifestyle, normal life, patience, recreation, silence, soul, surf, surfergirl, surfing, surtrip, travel, traveling, travelling, trends, wavesurfing, yoga |