“you get out there, wait all day and jockey around until you get the wave. you make a couple of flashy maneuvers and come through a section that no one thinks you can make. you finish with flair at the whitewash end – and all of this for nothing, because when it’s done it’s gone. surfing is sort of a zen exercise, the philosophy of action being everything and result’s nothing. that’s the joy of surfing… to understand being in the moment.” (john milius)
thx for this one, ben! have fun in bali and see ya next year in sri lanka! ;*
stephsoul 