“you get out there, wait all day and jockey around until you get the wave. you make a couple of flashy maneuvers and come through a section that no one thinks you can make. you finish with flair at the whitewash end – and all of this for nothing, because when it’s done it’s gone. surfing is sort of a zen exercise, the philosophy of action being everything and result’s nothing. that’s the joy of surfing… to understand being in the moment.” (john milius)
thx for this one, ben! have fun in bali and see ya next year in sri lanka! ;*
| Tags: australia, bali, batu karas, blue kiwi, carpe diem, indonesia, java, john milius, live for the moment, live for today, philosophy, sexy surf chick, sri lanka, surf, surf quotes, surfing, waves, wavesurfing, zen |
if you have stopped by before, you might know about my upcoming longterm-surftrip to asia. but just yesterday, there was this feeling, that I might want more… because if I’m really on the road for a few months, shouldn’t I also catch a glimpse of the wonderful waves in central america? or south america? or australia? or perhaps even africa???
| Tags: africa, asia, australia, backpackers, best spots, central america, point breaks, searching, south america, surfing, surftrip, travel, wafesurfing, waves |